Antler On: Saskatooning in Saskatchewan
Tooling along the Saskatoon River, an Aboriginal ‘tween two-wheels by. His bicycle’s handlebars replaced by real antlers. Instantly adorable, he looks back with a smile and zig zags to flaunt a little pride. Compelling a follow, his route leads to Riversdale where an unlit neon sign for the Golden Dragon Chinese Restaurant is reflecting twilight.
This surprising space houses an artfully run restaurant renamed the Hollows by Chefs Christie Peters and Kyle Michael, a couple in work and wedlock. No chop suey, this place is cute. Communal cocktails are served punchbowl style, original Chinese lanterns dangle from the ceiling contrasting mounted animal skulls. The food is serious. The service as kind and caring as informed and well-timed.
Mark The Hollows as a must, knowing it keeps really good company with other story-rich spots nearby -- the Odd Couple and 9 Mile Legacy Brewing, for example – in a residential neighbourhood where modern murals and sculptures like the two-headed bison mix with time-gone-by used furniture stores and thrift shops. When wandering here, detour to Garden Architecture & Design where the succulents, grapevines and water fountains bring life to a garden shop packed with planters, birdbaths and wind chimes you will want to order and ship home. Gnome joke!
After a sound-but-swift sleep and buffet brekkie at the stylish new boutique Alt Hotel, it’s back to Riversdale for a paddleboarding lesson and guided float. Not alone, kayaking seniors, picnicking families and pelicans share the river and reed-lined banks. Our Escape Sports guide coaches our knees out of the wobbles so we can stand and paddle -- because he believes we can -- and it’s not long before we are gliding at a steady clip in unison with one another and with the beats of Lizzo’s “Good as Hell” through the speaker of one of our group’s cellphones.
Starting the day this way works up hunger heartily satisfied at Odla with farm-fresh comfort food. Fried chicken sandwiches, brioche-bun burgers and salads around the table paired with Radlers spark chat about ingredient provenance and a quick trip to learn more from the restaurant co-owner and farmer Arlie LaRoche herself. Because rearing cattle, squealing pigs, free-run chicken, a flock of sheep and her human children isn’t quite enough for this Jane-of-all-trades, there’s a puppy in the family too. Little Golden Retriever nabbed our hearts and led us to nab a few ground delicious cherries from the bountiful veggie patch that supplies the restaurant.
The next enjoyable farm visit introduces us to Barb and John Cote who established, own and operate Black Fox Distillery. The hospitable makers of international award-winning craft spirits shared tips on assembling a spiked pumpkin iced latte, rolling pumpkins downhill and flower arranging from their novel u-pick garden of dahlias, sunflowers, snapdragons and more by the bucket. They are taking reservations for whiskey lovers in the market for full barrels of their oak-aged “good stuff.” Less ambitious home barkeeps can stock up in the on-site shop before heading back to Saskatoon admiring the thousands of deciduous trees they and members of the local LGBTQ community planted. They call it “the forest love made.”
Love fuels more than farms in Saskatoon. It fuels art appreciation.
The Remai Modern contemporary art gallery – created from an entrepreneurial immigrant’s love of art – is a Canadian gem. Fluid installations mean there is always something new here to see and experience. But not to be missed, and a permanent attraction is the world’s largest collection of Picasso’s linocut works. Learn the process the thoughtful simplicity and the impactful ways colour and texture can enliven images in a hands-on workshop.
Love fuels lyrics in Saskatchewan, too. Listen to Saskatoon-born legendary singer and songwriter Joni Mitchell. When walking the river here one late summer night, we came across BKS (which stands for Bachata, Kizomba, and Salsa) and their dancing on the river program where newbies and experts were getting into the swing steps from the Remai Modern and the Alt Hotel.
And love – of the land, of the community and of the feeling that here you can accomplish more -- motivates people like Saskatoon-born chef and entrepreneur Dale Mackay to establish roots and call the city home. Nationally acclaimed chef, MacKay is behind Ayden Kitchen & Bar, named for his son. Whether it’s pasta and perogies or fish and fowl you order, Ayden lives up to its reputation as one of the city’s best restaurants year over year.
We also love local Saskatoon coffee company Rampage Coffee Co. They ship all over the world with a growing, well-deserved fan base.
So grab Saskatoon by the antlers -- like the boy on the bike – and push your boundaries (whether on a longboard, behind the bar or at the crafts table), embrace bounty (at any number of impressive restaurants) and explore this lovable Saskatchewan riverside city (its bridges, parks or promenade).
Antler on!
We loved attending the official opening party of the Alt Hotel in Saskatoon!
