Transcendant Travel in Provence
Some places transcend being mere destinations, and at the top of that list is Provence, France. This Maryland-sized region, tucked away in the southeastern part of the country, envelops visitors in an atmosphere and way of life that gently persuades and charms.
It's a daunting task to articulate the numerous qualities and allure that explain why Provence consistently appears on so many travelers' "must-see" compilations. Nevertheless, I will endeavor to illustrate.
My wife Phyllis and I made a deliberate choice to confine our exploration to what we regard as the authentic heart of Provence. While the Cote d'Azur and the French Riviera along the Mediterranean Sea boast their own admirers, sometimes leading to heavy traffic and packed beaches, our chosen towns and villages welcomed a scant number of outsiders. Here, there were no restaurant queues, no tourist attraction lines, and scarce fellow English-speaking visitors.
We opted to travel there with Untours, a company we have explored with before. The company's motto and mission, focused on allowing participants to "Live like the locals," align perfectly with a stay in Provence. The initial impression upon arrival is shaped by the picturesque scene surrounding you.
Mountain ranges overlook valleys dressed in a diverse patchwork of vineyards, orchards, olive trees, and fields of fruits and vegetables. At certain times of the year, portions of this vibrant landscape are enhanced by a blanket of aromatic lavender plants, destined for a variety of products such as cosmetics, perfumes, soaps, teas, and even ice cream. Within this backdrop, the true treasures of Provence come to light, encapsulating the essence of its allure. These treasures are the historic villages characterized by stone buildings clustering along narrow, meandering cobblestone streets and alleys, and cozy tree-shaded squares bordered by quaint sidewalk cafes.
During ancient times, many villages were perched on the peak of towering hills for defensive purposes. Today they’re collectively called hill towns, and they come by that name honestly.
Some are reached by following a twisting one-lane road, hoping not to meet another vehicle heading in the opposite direction. It’s wise to park just outside a village and enter on foot.
Early in our trip, before learning the wisdom of that advice, we spent an inordinate amount of time slowly driving on what passes for streets which were not much wider than our vehicle. On occasion, when we came bumper-to-bumper with a car heading the other way, one driver had to back up so the other could squeeze by.
While many of these tiny enclaves share similar traits, each also has its own unique appeals. As a result, days spent exploring them provide a variety of experiences that are different, yet equally intriguing.
The French government has undertaken a task that to me would seem impossible. Among all of the magnificent communities throughout the country, some have been designed as Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most Beautiful Villages in France). After my stay, I’d say that many more could be added to the list.
Seventeen of the honored enclaves are in Provence, and our first view of Gordes demonstrated why it’s included. The village (population about 1,600) has been the site of a settlement since Neolithic times. It looks over the surrounding valleys from its strategic location on the peak of a towering rock, making it one of the most photogenic settings in all of France. The site is topped by an imposing castle that was built and added to between the 11 h and 16th centuries.
Menerbes, another “Most Beautiful” town, was brought to the world’s attention when the British-born author Peter Mayle hung out there while he wrote the popular book My Year in Provence, which was published in 1991.
It emerged from centuries of wars and turmoil miraculously intact and preserved. Most restaurants and shops are grouped at the bottom of the mountain crest on which the village is perched, with the tranquil square at he top.
The setting is very different in Roussillion. It’s located near once-active ochre mines. Many houses, most of which were constructed some 300 years ago, are painted shades of red, pink and orange that echo the colors of the surrounding rock cliffs. I found it challenging to stop taking pictures of this Technicolor scene.
In addition to visiting towns within an easy commute, we spent time in Pernes-les-Fontaines. That’s where the beautifully renovated century-old farmhouse which Untours provided as our temporary home is located.
Remnants of stone ramparts are among vestiges of the fortified Medieva town. Its name refers to 41 ornate public fountains that began furnishing water to its inhabitants in the 17 th century, but today are not operational in order to preserve that precious resource.
I could continue through the almost A-to-Z list of names of inviting Provencial towns, but you probably get the picture. Let’s turn to four other factors that make a visit to this corner of France more than memorable. I refer to history, food, wine and people.
Phoenicians who arrived six centuries before Christ were followed by Greeks, then Romans. While they held sway, from about 100 BC until disintegration of their empire five centuries later, this swath of fertile land became one of Rome’s wealthiest provinces. During the Middle Ages, it was invaded by successive waves of marauders.
Evidence of pages from the past abound. In St. Remy, remains of the Greek city of Glanum are located near a Roman triumphal arch and funerary monument. The two-tiered Roman amphitheater in Arles dates
back to the first century BC.
Some well-preserved Roman antiquities continue to function in various ways. The arena in Arles hosts bull fights, concerts and other events, while plays and musical productions take place in Roman theaters in Orange and Vaison-la-Romaine.
Much of France’s well-deserved reputation for fabulous food and wonderful wine is based upon what is grown, made and cooked in Provence. It didn’t take long for Fyllis and me to appreciate each mouthful
and sip.
The vegetables on our plates, often seasoned with ubiquitous garlic and local olive oil, recently had been growing in fields close by, as had fresh-from-the-farm fruit. Regional specialty sweets like nougat, artisanal chocolate and candied fruits tempt the palate and challenge your next step on a scale.
Restaurant food portions are large, and then some. After we ordered a steak to share at an outdoor café, the waitperson suggested, only partly in jest, that we move to a larger table which could accommodate the oversized slab of delicious meat.
Wine has been made in this region for at least 2,600 years, first by the Greeks and then Romans. Provence is known predominately for rose wine, which accounts for about half of the local production. Some oenophiles also praise its spicy, full-flavored reds.
Even given these pleasures of the past, and flavors of food and wine, we found the people of Provence to be perhaps its most endearing treasure.
Topping the list is their genuine friendliness. When we struggled with our elementary school French, they used their elementary school English to help. When we encountered a car problem, an off-duty policeman came to our rescue. If we looked lost while walking, a local passer-by invariably offered assistance.
The genuine friendliness and welcoming attitude of the Provencales, as inhabitants are known, might be reason enough to visit this inviting corner of France. Given the many other enticements, it’s no wonder why the destination is high on many a travel bucket list.
Untours provided us with a wealth of pre-trip information, accommodations, a rental car and first-day briefing from the on-site company representative. We stretched our budget by enjoying some meals “at home.”
During previous Untours trips, we have stayed on a working farm and in apartments at a winery and overlooking the canals of Venice – never a hotel. Untours travels to 13 European countries and also offers canal, river and small ship sea cruises.
For more information call (888) 868-6871 or log onto untours.com. For more information about Provence, go here!
